Cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

A method of reducing the appearance of hyperpigmented skin or inflamed skin is disclosed. The method can include topically applying to hyperpigmented skin or inflamed skin a composition comprising an effective amount of an extract of Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf to reduce melanocyte pigmentation in the skin or to reduce tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) and cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1 and COX-2) activity in the skin.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No.15/799,507, filed Oct. 31, 2017, which is a continuation of U.S. patentapplication Ser. No. 14/959,893, filed Dec. 4, 2015 (U.S. Pat. No.9,814,670), which claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No.62/087,658, filed Dec. 4, 2014. The contents of the above-referencedapplications are incorporated into the present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

Various skin formulations that are structured to in such a way to treata wide range of skin conditions. The formulations can be used separatelyor in combination in a regimen format to counteract the aging processusing Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis(evening rose) extract, a biomimetic peptide, and a cosmetic acceptablevehicle.

B. Description of Related Art

Many factors contribute to skin aging such as the actual age of aperson, the amount of exposure to environmental factors (e.g., sunlight, pollution, chemicals, smoke, etc.), and how well a person hastaken care of their skin. In particular, skin aging concerns twoprocesses—intrinsic aging, which is related to the natural aging processand genetic influences, and extrinsic, or accumulated damage due toenvironmental factors.

Intrinsic aging process in cells and skin can be related to the functionof the protein Lamin A, which is an important protein during celldivision as it provides the membrane structure of the nuclease. Withoutfunctional Lamin A, the nuclear lamina creates an abnormal nuclearenvelope lacking structural support. This can lead to an abnormal shapednuclear envelope which limits cell division. A muted form of Lamin A,known as progerin, is associated with the disease progeria wherepatients suffer from accelerated aging, displaying signs of aging inskin as early as 2 years of age, and have a sharply shortened lifespan.

Extrinsic factors can include exposure to ultraviolet rays through sunexposure or the use of ultraviolet lamps (for example, tanning beds).Ultraviolet rays can induce oxidative stress and inflammation that leadsto skin damage. The accumulation of oxidative stress through freeradical formation, can damage skin proteins leading to skin aging, whichincludes loss of elasticity, loss of dermal proteins, lines andwrinkles, and abnormal pigmentation. Inflammation is also acharacteristic of UV and environmental damage. Inflammation can occurthrough inflammatory cytokines such as TNFalpha, or enzymes thatcontribute to the inflammatory pathway such as cyclooxygenase 1,cyclooxygenase 2, and lipoxygenase. As inflammation persists, enzymessuch as matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP3), and matrixmetalloproteinase-9 (MMP9) are involved in the breakdown dermalproteins, which allows immune cells to migrate. This breakdown in dermalproteins such as laminin and collagen can lead to skin aging. Whenexposed to extrinsic factors such the ultra violet (UV) radiation of thesun, irritants, and pollution, the keratinocyte (outermost cell of theskin) releases signaling molecules, such as α-melanocyte-stimulatinghormone (α-MSH), and inflammatory cytokines. These hormones triggermelanocytes to produce melanin. The production of melanin can result invariations in the color of the skin. For example, a person's skin canhave a sallow tone or hyperpigmented spots. Conventional depigmentingagents, such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid can raiseseveral safety concerns (for example, ochronosis, atrophy,carcinogenesis, and other local or systemic side effects) with long-termexposure.

The combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors eventually leads tovisible signs of aging, and over time these signs progress through threestages—early, moderate and advanced.

The early signs of skin aging include the first stages of visible finelines, especially around the eyes, and the beginning of uneven skintone. Cell turnover begins to slow, and this can have a dulling effecton the complexion. Collagen and elastin—while still healthy—can start tosuffer early damage, leaving skin slightly less resilient. If the matrixis left unprotected, wrinkles that are forming underneath the surface ofthe skin will eventually become more noticeable due to damage in thedermal layer. Eyes can occasionally look puffy, and pores appearslightly more noticeable. Typically, this occurs in an age range ofabout 25 to 35 years of age.

The moderate signs of skin aging include more pronounced expressionlines around the eyes, the mouth and on the forehead. Underneath theeyes dark circles can become more noticeable. The skin's supportstructure becomes weaker as less collagen is produced, and elastinfibers begin to lose their ability to “snap” back. Skin loses vitalmoisture more easily, and dark spots can become more of an issue. Finelines on the neck can become more visible, and “marionette” lines oneither side of the mouth can begin to appear. More significant age spotsbegin to surface, eyes may look tired more often, and pores appearlarger. This typically occurs in an age range of about 35 to 50 years ofage.

The advanced signs of skin aging include “static” deep lines andwrinkles that are visible even when the face is at rest. The supportingstructure of collagen and elastin is severely compromised and skinsagging, especially in the cheek and jawline areas, becomes evident. Theneck shows signs of cumulative damage, with the skin becoming loose andmarked by horizontal wrinkles called “tree rings.” Dark spots becomemore prominent, and the eye area can show noticeable crepiness, sagging,puffiness and more pronounced dark circles in addition to a “drooping”upper eyelid. Skin loses its youthful volume and lift due to a loss ofnatural cushioning, and skin dryness is more pronounced as the externalbarrier is compromised, oil production slows and internal moisturelevels drop. Cell turnover slows dramatically, and dead skin cellsremain on the skin's surface which can dull the complexion and makepores more noticeable. The thickness of the skin is also impacted, andas it becomes thinner it's more easily irritated. Typically this occursin an age range of above 50 years of age.

Current products on the market either do not effectively address ageing,and pigmentation problems, and/or they have skin irritating effects.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A solution to the problems associated with current products tocounteract the effects of ageing has been discovered. The solutionresides in a combination of botanical ingredients and a biomimeticpeptide that can be used to create a topical skin composition to counteroxidative damage and inflammatory damage, while increasing production ofdermal proteins such as collagen and laminin, reduce pigmentation incells and the accumulation of progerin in cells and skin.

In one aspect, there is disclosed a topical skin composition comprisingRhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis(evening rose) extract, a biomimetic peptide, and a cosmetic acceptablevehicle. This combination can be used across all skin types (e.g., dryskin, normal skin, oily skin, and combination skin). The Rhododendronferrugineum (alpine rose) can be extract of one or more leaves. Such anextract can be beneficial in countering the extrinsic factors of ageingby providing anti-oxidant properties, inhibiting breakdown of dermalproteins (for example, inhibiting cyclo-oxygenase 1 enzyme activity,cyclo-oxygenase 2 enzyme activity, and lipoxygenaze enzyme activity),reducing inflammation through reduction of TNPalpha production, andreducing pigmentation through reduction of B16 melanocyte production.The Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) extract can be an extract ofOenothera biennis (evening primrose) seeds. Such an extract can bebeneficial in countering ageing effects caused by inflammation bypromoting type I collagen production. An increase in type I collagenproduction can be beneficial in reactivating the production of matrixproteins that are crucial for skin firmness and in reducing theappearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In some aspects of the invention,the Oenothera biennis seed extract is an extract of an evening primroseseed that has been encapsulated in a polymer matrix. Encapsulation ofthe oil may allow the oil to be delivered to the deeper layers of theskin. The biomimetic peptide can be useful to counter the effects ofageing by reducing accumulation of progerin protein in fibroblasts andskin explants, and increasing collage protein expression. In someaspects of the invention, the biomimetic peptide is trifluoroacetyltripeptide-2. The addition of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and adenosinemay counter the effects of inflammation. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate andadenosine can be useful in promoting type I collagen production andinhibiting MMP3 and MMP9 enzyme activities. Promotion of type I collagenproduction can lessen glabellar frowns, crepiness and, thus, enhanceskin smoothness. The Rhododendron ferrugineum extract, Oenothera biennisextract, and the biomimetic peptide can be mixed with the cosmeticacceptable vehicle to form an oil and water emulsion and/or a serum. Thecosmetic acceptable vehicle of the present invention can include water,glycerin, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, triethanolamine, polydimethylsiloxane,and polymethyl methylacrylate. In some aspects of the invention, thecosmetic vehicle can include glycerol stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetylphosphate, cetearyl alcohol, structuring agents, and preservatives.Addition of pentylene glycol, ethylhexyl isononoate, Zea mays germ oil,Butyrospermum parkii butter, and sucrose polycottonseedate to thetopical compositions of the present invention can enhance conditioningof the skin. Addition of a lysate of a fermentation product ofBifidobacterium (e.g., bifida ferment lysate) can enhance skinsmoothness by suppressing protein-destructive enzymes (for example, MMP3and MMP9) known to cause elasticity loss and wrinkling, as well asimmune suppressive biochemicals that lower the skin's immune activityimmune activity after UV exposure. In some instances, the addition ofBifidobacterium ferment lysate can reduce redness caused by irritationof the skin. In some aspects of the present invention, the compositionis formulated as an eye cream and includes heperidin methyl chalcone,palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. In other aspects of the present invention,addition of polysorbate 20, 1,2-hexanediol, and a copolymer ofhydroxymethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate can be used whenformulating the topical composition as a serum.

In some aspects of the invention, an oil and water emulsion capable ofbeing applied to the skin and/or the periorbital area of a person's facecan include Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, Oenotherabiennis (evening primrose) extract, a biomimetic peptide; and a cosmeticacceptable vehicle comprising from 50% to 70% by weight of thecomposition of water. Such a emulsion can include 0.001 to 0.1% byweight Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) leaf extract, 0.001 to 1%by weight Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) seed extract, and 0.0001to 0.01% by weight a biomimetic peptide. The oil and water emulsion canalso include 0.1 to 2% by weight tetrahexyldecyl acorbate, and 1 to 3%by weight polydimethylsiloxane, 1 to 12% by weight of glycerin, 0.01 to0.3% by weight crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, 0.01 to 0.2% by weightdisodium EDTA, 0.01 to 1% by weight triethanolamine, and 0.01 to 1% byweight polymethyl methylacrylate. Amounts of additional ingredientsinclude 1 to 5% by weight pentylene glycol, 1 to 5% by weight glycerylsterate, 1 to 5% by weight ethylhexyl isononanoate, 1 to 3% by weightcetyl alcohol, 1 to 5% by weight butyrospermum parkii butter, 1 to 3% byweight cetyl phosphate, 1 to 3% by weight cetearyl alcohol, 0.01 to 1%by weight sucrose polycottonseedate, 0.01 to 1% by weight structuringagents, and 0.01 to 0.5% by weight perservatives. In embodiments whenthe oil and water emulsion is formulated as a skin cream, 0.1 to 2% byweight of the lysate of a fermentation product of Bifidobacterium can beadded. In embodiments the cosmetic acceptable vehicle comprises 60 to70% water, the emulsion can also include hesperidin methyl chalcone andpalmitoyl tetrapetide-7. Such a formulation is useful as an eye cream.Methods of applying the oil and water emulsion can include applying anyof the serums described throughout this Specification to a portion of aperson's face and/or a portion of the periorbital region of a person'sface.

In another aspect of the invention, a serum capable of being applied tothe skin is provided. Such a serum includes Rhododendron ferrugineum(alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) extract, abiomimetic peptide; and a cosmetic acceptable vehicle comprising from50% to 70% by weight of the composition of water. Additionally,Menyanthes trifoliata (buckbean) extract can be used. In the serum,0.001 to 0.1% by weight Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) leafextract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight Oenothera biennis (evening primrose)seed extract, 0.001 to 0.1% by weight Menyanthes trifoliata (buckbean)extract, and 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight a biomimetic peptide can be used.Addition of 0.1 to 2% by weight tetrahexyldecyl acorbate, and 1 to 3% byweight polydimethylsiloxane can enhance skin smoothness. The serum canalso include 1 to 12% by weight of glycerin, 0.01 to 0.3% by weightcrosslinked polyacrylate polymers, 0.01 to 0.2% by weight disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), 0.01 to 1% by weighttriethanolamine, and 0.01 to 1% by weight polymethyl methylacrylate. Insome embodiments, the serum can include 60 to 70% water, butyleneglycol, cyclopentasiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylyl glycol,squalane, panthenol, polysorbate 20, 1,2-hexanediol, and a copolymer ofhydroxymethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate. Such a serum caninclude 1 to 7% by weight butylene glycol, 1 to 7% by weight cyclopentasiloxane, 1 to 5% by weight hydrogenated polydecene, 0.01 to 1% byweight caprylyl glycol, 0.01 to 1% by weight squalane, 0.01 to 1% byweight panthenol, 0.01 to 1% by weight polysorbate 20, 0.01 to 0.5% byweight 1,2-hexanediol, and 0.01 to 0.5% by weight a copolymer ofhydroxymethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate. Methods of applyingthe serum can include applying any of the serums described throughoutthis Specification to a portion of a person's face.

In further aspects, the topical skin compositions described herein arecomprised of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising water,glyceryl stearate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-33, andcarbomer. In some embodiments, the topical skin composition comprises 40to 75 wt. % water, 4 to 10 wt. % glyceryl stearate, 0.5 to 5 wt. % cetylphosphate, 0.5 to 5 wt. % cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 to 3 wt. % ceteareth-33,and 0.1 to 3 wt. % carbomer. In 74218251.1-7 some embodiments, thecomposition is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion and thecosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 45 to 60 wt. % water andfurther comprises: Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter, Zea Mays (Corn)Germ oil, pentylene glycol, dimethicone, glycerin, triethanolamine,polymethyl methacrylate, and phenoxyethanol. In some embodiments, thetopical skin composition comprises 2 to 10 wt. % Butyrospermum parkii(Shea) butter, 2 to 10 wt. % Zea Mays (Corn) Germ oil, 1 to 7 wt. %pentylene glycol, 0.5 to 5 wt. % dimethicone, 0.5 to 5 wt. % glycerin,0.1 to 3 wt. % triethanolamine, 0.1 to 3 wt. % polymethyl methacrylate,and 0.1 to 3 wt. % phenoxyethanol.

In some embodiments of the compositions of the disclosure, thecompositions further comprise an extract of Oputia tuna. In someembodiments, the compositions comprise 0.001 to 1 wt. % of the extractof Oputia tuna. In some embodiments, the Oputia tuna extract is a fruitextract.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, athickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, astructuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or anantioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of suchingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at leasttwo, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of theseadditional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. In someembodiments, the compositions of the disclosure further comprise one ormore additional ingredients selected from one or more pH adjusters,preservatives, thickening agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, andemulsion stabilizers. Non-limiting examples of these additionalingredients are identified throughout this specification and areincorporated into this section by reference. The amounts of suchingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight or volume of thecomposition, or any integer or range in between as disclosed in othersections of this specification, which are incorporated into thisparagraph by reference.

Also disclosed are methods of inhibiting melanogenesis, melanosometransfer, and/or glycation comprising topically applying any saidcomposition to skin in need thereof, wherein said composition inhibitsmelanogenesis, melanosome transfer, or glycation. In some 74218251.1-8aspects, said compositions are applied to dark spots on skin, unevenskin, or hyperpigmented skin.

Also disclosed are methods of reducing accumulation of progerin in cellsand skin in a person's skin comprising applying any one of thecompositions disclosed or claimed in the application to skin in needthereof.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, orliquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

It is also contemplated that the compositions disclosed throughout thisspecification can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. By wayof example, a leave-on composition can be one that is topically appliedto skin and remains on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 hours,or overnight or throughout the day). Alternatively, a rinse-offcomposition can be a product that is intended to be applied to the skinand then removed or rinsed from the skin (e.g., with water) within aperiod of time such as less than 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 minute. An example ofa rinse of composition can be a skin cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, orsoap. An example of a leave-on composition can be a skin moisturizer,sunscreen, mask, overnight cream, serum or a day cream.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactileproperties. “Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or“pleasant tactile properties” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

Also disclosed herein are embodiments one to fifty. Embodiment one is atopical skin care composition comprising Rhododendron ferrugineum(alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) extract,trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.Embodiment two is the topical skin care composition of embodiment one,wherein the Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract is fromleaves of Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) and the Oenotherabiennis (evening primrose) extract comprises oil from seeds of anOenothera biennis (evening primrose), wherein the oil is encapsulated ina polymer matrix. Embodiment three is the topical skin care compositionof any one of embodiments one or two, comprising 0.01 to 2 wt. % ofRhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, 0.1 to 2 wt. % ofOenothera biennis (evening primrose) extract, and 0.0001 to 2 wt. % oftrifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2. Embodiment four is the topical skincomposition of any one of embodiments one to three, wherein thecosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises water, glycerin,acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, triethanolamine, polydimethylsiloxane,and polymethyl methylacrylate. Embodiment five is the topical skincomposition of embodiment 4, wherein the cosmetically acceptable vehiclecomprises 50 to 75 wt. % water, 1 to 15 wt. % glycerin, 0.1 to 0.5 wt. %acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, 0.05 to 0.15 wt. %disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 0.1 to 1.5 wt. %triethanolamine, 2 to 5 wt. % polydimethylsiloxane, and 0.5 to 1 wt. %polymethyl methylacrylate. Embodiment six is the topical skincomposition of any one of embodiments four to five, wherein thecomposition is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion and thecosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 55 to 70 wt. % water andfurther comprises glyceryl stearate, pentylene glycol, ethylhexylisononanoate, cetyl alcohol, Butyrosperum parkii (shea) butter, Zea mays(cor) germ oil, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl alcohol, and ceteareth-33.Embodiment seven is the topical skin composition of embodiment six,wherein the composition further comprises 3 to 7 wt. % glycerylstearate, 3 to 7 wt. % pentylene glycol, 2 to 5 wt. % ethylhexylisononanoate, 2 to 5 wt. % cetyl alcohol, 1 to 3 wt. % Butyrosperumparkii (shea) butter, 1 to 3 wt. % Zea mays (cor) germ oil, 1 to 3 wt. %cetyl phosphate, 1 to 3 wt. % cetearyl alcohol, and 0.5 to 1 wt. %ceteareth-33. Embodiment eight is the topical skin composition of anyone of embodiments one to three, wherein the cosmetically acceptablevehicle comprises water, glyceryl stearate, cetyl phosphate, cetearylalcohol, ceteareth-33, and carbomer. Embodiment nine is the topical skincomposition of embodiment eight, wherein the cosmetically acceptablevehicle comprises 40 to 75 wt. % water, 4 to 10 wt. % glyceryl stearate,0.5 to 5 wt. % cetyl phosphate, 0.5 to 5 wt. % cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 to3 wt. % ceteareth-33, and 0.1 to 3 wt. % carbomer. Embodiment ten is thetopical skin composition of embodiments eight or nine, wherein thecomposition is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion and thecosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 45 to 60 wt. % water andfurther comprises Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter, Zea Mays (Corn)Germ oil, pentylene glycol, dimethicone, glycerin, triethanolamine,polymethyl methacrylate, and phenoxyethanol. Embodiment eleven is thetopical skin composition of embodiment ten, wherein the compositioncomprises 2 to 10 wt. % Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter, 2 to 10 wt.% Zea Mays (Corn) Germ oil, 1 to 7 wt. % pentylene glycol, 0.5 to 5 wt.% dimethicone, 0.5 to 5 wt. % glycerin, 0.1 to 3 wt. % triethanolamine,0.1 to 3 wt. % polymethyl methacrylate, and 0.1 to 3 wt. %phenoxyethanol. Embodiment twelve is the topical skin care compositionof any one of embodiments one to eleven, further comprising a lysate ofa fermentation product of Bifidobacterium. Embodiment thirteen is thetopical skin care composition of embodiment twelve, comprising 0.1 to 2wt. % of the lysate of a fermentation product of Bifidobacterium.Embodiment fourteen is the topical skin care composition of any one ofembodiments one to thirteen, further comprising an extract of Oputiatuna. Embodiment fifteen is the topical skin care composition ofembodiment fourteen, comprising 0.001 to 1 wt. % of the extract ofOputia tuna. Embodiment sixteen is the topical skin care composition ofembodiment fourteen or fifteen, wherein the Oputia tuna extract is afruit extract. Embodiment seventeen is the topical skin care compositionof any one of embodiments one to seven, further comprising heperidinmethyl chalcone and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Embodiment eighteen is thetopical skin care composition of embodiment seventeen, wherein thecombined wt. % of heperidin methyl chalcone and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7present in the composition is 0.01 to 2 wt. %. Embodiment nineteen isthe topical skin composition of any one of embodiments four to five,wherein the composition is formulated as a serum and the cosmeticallyacceptable vehicle comprises 60 to 70 wt. % water and further comprisesbutylene glycol, cyclopentasiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene,dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross polymer, capryl glycol,1,2-hexanediol, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl tauratecopolymer, polysorbate 20, squalene, and panthenol. Embodiment twenty isthe topical skin composition of embodiment nineteen, comprising 3 to 7wt. % butylene glycol, 3 to 7 wt. % cyclopentasiloxane, 2 to 5 wt. %hydrogenated polydecene, 1 to 3 wt. % dimethicone/vinyl dimethiconecross polymer, 0.1 to 1 wt. % capryl glycol, 0.1 to 1 wt. %1,2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 1 wt. % hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 0.1 to 1 wt. % polysorbate 20, 0.1to 1 wt. % squalene, and 0.1 to 1 wt. % panthenol. Embodiment twenty-oneis the topical skin care composition of any one of embodiments one tofive and nineteen to twenty, further comprising Menyanthes trifoliata(buckbean) extract. Embodiment twenty-two is the topical skin carecomposition of embodiment twenty-one, wherein the Menyanthes trifoliata(buckbean) is an extract of Menyanthes trifoliata (buckbean) leaves.Embodiment twenty-three is the topical skin care composition of any oneof embodiments twenty-one to twenty-two, comprising 0.001 to 2 wt. % ofMenyanthes trifoliata (buckbean) extract. Embodiment twenty-four is thetopical skin care composition of any one of embodiments one totwenty-three, further comprising adenosine and tetrahexyldecylascorbate. Embodiment twenty-five is the topical skin care compositionof embodiment twenty-four, comprising 0.1 to 2 wt. % adenosine and 0.1to 2 wt. % tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Embodiment twenty-six is thetopical skin care composition of any one of embodiments one totwenty-five, further comprising one or more additional ingredientsselected from one or more pH adjusters, preservatives, thickeningagents, antioxidants, chelating agents, and emulsion stabilizers.Embodiment twenty-seven is the topical skin care composition of any oneof embodiments one to twenty-six, wherein the composition is capable ofinhibiting cyclo-oxygenase 1 or 2 or both enzyme activity in skin.Embodiment twenty-eight is the topical skin care composition of any oneof embodiments one to twenty-seven, wherein the composition is capableof inhibiting lipoxygenase enzyme activity in skin. Embodimenttwenty-nine is the topical skin care composition of any one ofembodiments one to twenty-eight, wherein the composition is capable ofinhibiting TNF-alpha production in skin. Embodiment thirty is thetopical skin care composition of any one of embodiments one totwenty-nine, wherein the composition is capable of reducing melanocytepigmentation in skin. Embodiment thirty-one is the topical skin carecomposition of any one of embodiments one to thirty, wherein thecomposition is capable of stimulating collagen production in skin.Embodiment thirty-two is the topical skin care composition of any one ofembodiments one to thirty-one, wherein the composition is capable ofreducing accumulation of progerin in skin cells or fibroblasts.Embodiment thirty-three is the topical skin care composition of any oneof embodiments one to thirty-two, wherein the composition is capable ofreducing MMP 3 or MMP 9, or both, activity in skin. Embodimentthirty-four is the topical skin care composition of any one ofembodiments one to thirty-three, wherein the composition is capable ofreducing oxidative damage caused by free radicals in skin. Embodimentthirty-five is the topical skin care composition of any one ofembodiments twenty-one to twenty-three, wherein the composition iscapable of stimulating laminin production in skin. Embodiment thirty-sixis a method of treating skin comprising topically applying to skin inneed thereof any one of the compositions of embodiments on tothirty-five to skin. Embodiment thirty-seven is the method of embodimentthirty-six, wherein the composition is applied to a fine line orwrinkle. Embodiment thirty-eight is the method of embodiment thirty-six,wherein the composition is applied to the periorbital area of a person'sface. Embodiment thirty-nine is the method of embodiment thirty-eight,wherein the composition is applied to fine lines or wrinkles around theeye. Embodiment forty is the method of embodiment thirty-eight, whereinthe composition is applied to under eye bags or under eye dark circles.Embodiment forty-one is the method of any one of embodiments thirty-sixto forty, wherein the composition inhibits cyclo-oxygenase 1 or 2 orboth enzyme activity in skin. Embodiment forty-two is the method of anyone of embodiments thirty-six to forty-one, wherein the compositioninhibits lipoxygenase enzyme activity in skin. Embodiment forty-three isthe method of any one of embodiments thirty-six to forty-two, whereinthe composition inhibits TNF-alpha production in skin. Embodimentforty-four is the method of any one of embodiments thirty-six toforty-three, wherein the composition reduces melanocyte pigmentation inskin. Embodiment forty-five is the method of any one of embodimentsthirty-six to forty-four, wherein the composition stimulates collagenproduction in skin. Embodiment forty-six is the method of any one ofembodiments thirty-six to forty-five, wherein the composition reducesaccumulation of progerin in skin cells or fibroblasts. Embodimentforty-seven is the method of any one of embodiments thirty-six toforty-six, wherein the composition reduces MMP 3 or MMP 9, or both,activity in skin. Embodiment forty-eight is the method of any one ofembodiments thirty-six to forty-seven, wherein the composition reducesoxidative damage caused by free radicals in skin. Embodiment forty-nineis the method of any one of embodiments thirty-six to forty-eight,wherein the composition stimulates laminin production in skin.Embodiment fifty is a method of inhibiting melanogenesis, melanosometransfer, and/or glycation comprising topically applying the compositionof any one of the compositions of embodiments one to thirty-five toskin, wherein said composition inhibits melanogenesis, melanosometransfer, or glycation.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on lips orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to lips or skin. Topical skin care compositions of the presentinvention can have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping orpooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these termsincludes any measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve adesired result. The terms “promote” or “increase” or any variation ofthese terms includes any measurable increase or production of a proteinor molecule (e.g., matrix proteins such as fibronectin, laminin,collagen, or elastin or molecules such as hyaluronic acid) to achieve adesired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients or stepsdisclosed throughout the specification. For purposes of consistingessentially of means that inclusion of additional ingredients in thecompositions do not materially affect the properties of theaforementioned combination of botanical plant extracts and cosmeticvehicle. One such instance would be the inclusion of an ingredient thathas a detrimental effect (e.g., reducing the efficacy or stability) onany one of the ingredients identified said combination or on the overalleffect of the composition (e.g., ability to smooth skin).

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

Given the number of various products on the market today and they myriadof different skin types, a person is oftentimes at a loss to identify anappropriate product to help counteract the intrinsic and extrinsicfactors that contribute to the aging process.

The cosmetic compositions and formulations of the present invention canbe used to counteract the factors contributing to the aging process,maintain and improve the health of a variety of skin types. Forinstance, the cosmetic compositions can provide many advantagesincluding: counteracting oxidative and inflammatory damage, increasingdermal proteins such as collagen and laminin, reducing pigmentation incells, and reducing accumulation of progerin in cells and skin (forexample, reduce accumulation of progerin protein in fibroblasts and skinexplants).

These and other non-limiting aspects of the present invention areprovided in the following subsections.

A. Active Ingredients

The present invention is premised on a discovery of a combination ofactive ingredients—Rhododendron ferrugineum (alpine rose) extract,Oenothera biennis (evening rose) extract, and a biomimetic peptide(trifluoracetyl tripeptide-2)—that can be used to improve the skin'svisual appearance, counteract the extrinsic and intrinsic effects ofaging, whiten or lighten the skin's color or tone, treathyperpigmentation and other related disorders, and even out a person'sskin tone. This combination of ingredients can be used in differentproducts (e.g., a day cream, an eye cream, and a serum) to treat variousskin conditions. By way of example, a day cream can help moisturize skinand treat fine lines and wrinkles. The eye cream can help firm up skinand increase microcirculation to reduce the appearance of under eye bagswhile also reducing the appearance of dark circles. The serum can have aconcentrated amount of these ingredients to help reduce the accumulationof proteins that can lead to skin aging.

Additional actives can be used with the combination of Rhododendronferrugineum (alpine rose) extract, Oenothera biennis (evening rose)extract, and a biomimetic peptide (trifluoracetyl tripeptide-2). In oneinstance, for example, a cream can further include Bifidobacteriumferment lysate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to further target fineslines and wrinkles, increase skin firmness, and brightening orlightening the appearance of skin. In another instance, an under eyecream can further include tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, hesperidin methylchalcone, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 to further improve skin firmnessand increased microcirculation around the eye to reduce puffiness anddark circles. In still another instance, a serum formulation can furtherinclude Bifidobacterium ferment lysate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate tohelp reduce protein accumulation in skin cells. The serum can furtherinclude Menyanthes trifoliata (buckbean) extract.

The compositions and formulation of the present invention can beparticularly beneficial for skin that has begun to develop lines,wrinkles and/or crepiness. In addition to counteracting the agingprocess, the combination of ingredients hydrates and brightens the skin.

Rhododendron ferrugineum Extract:

Also known as alpine rose, Rhododendron ferrugineum is a flowering plantnative to remote mountain areas such as the Alps and Pyrennes.Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf extract is commercially available from avariety of sources. The leaves and flowers are known sources offlavonoids. An exemplary source can be obtained from Mirabelle AGBiochemistry. (Buchs, Switzerland USA) under the trade names Alpine RoseActive or PhYtoCellTec™ Alp Rose. The extracted compounds can be used inthe compositions/formulations of the present invention as a powderand/or solutions of water and an organic solvents (for example, water,glycerin, or combinations thereof). In some embodiments, the extractincludes stem cells of alpine rose leaves. It has been discovered usingin in vitro testing that this ingredient has anti-oxidant effects,inhibits cyclo-oxygenase 1 enzyme activity, cyclo-oxygenase 2 enzymeactivity, lipoxygenase enzyme activity, and reduces TNFalpha productionand B16 melanocyte pigmentation and can be used to reduce the productionof melanin in skin cells (See, Example 1).

Oenothera biennis Extract:

Also known as evening primrose, Oenothera biennis is a flowering plantnative to eastern and central North America. The extract from the seedsof the Oenothera biennis is an oil and can be used as a skinconditioner. The oil can be encapsulated in a polymeric material toassist in delivery of the oil to deep areas of tissue. The encapsulatedform of the oil can be powder containing at least 23% Oenothera biennisseed extract. This ingredient is commercially available from a varietyof sources. An exemplary source can be obtained from TagraBiotechnologies Ltd. (Netanya, Israel) under the trade name TAGROL EP01.It has been discovered using in in vitro testing that this extractincrease Type I collagen production (See, Example 1).

Biomimetic Peptide:

In preferred embodiments of the present invention, trifluoroacetyltripeptide-2 is used as the biomimetic peptide. The trifluoracetyltripeptide-2 is derived from the pepidase inhibitor 3 or Elafin. Thetrifluoracetyl tripeptide-2 has been shown to improve the overallsmoothness of skin by reducing accumulation of progerin protein infibroblasts and skin explants and increase Type I collagen production.Trifluoracetyl tripeptide-2 is commercially available from a wide rangeof sources. For instance, LucasMeyer Cosmetics (Champlan, France)produces a glycerin, water and dextran solution of trifluoracetyltripeptide-2 that can be used in the context of the present invention.It has been discovered using in in vitro testing that this that thisextract increase Type I collagen production. (See, Example 1).

Bifidobacterium Ferment Lysate:

Also known as bifida ferment lysate is a lysate of bifidobacteriaconsisting of bacteria metabolism products, cytoplasm fractions and cellwall components. Bifida ferment lysate is commercially available from awide range of sources. For example, CLR (Germany) produces solutions abifida ferment lysate in phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate orphenoxyethanol and parabens under the trade name Repair Complex CLR™ PF.

Menyanthes trifoliata Extract:

Also known buckbean, Menyanthes trifoliate is a marine flowering plantfound in fens and bogs of Asia, Europe and North America. Menyanthestrifoliate is commercially available from a variety of sources. Forexample, Barnet Products Corp. (Englewood Cliffs, N.J., USA) produces aglycerin, water solution of Menyanthes trifoliate leaf extract under thetrade name Minythis. It has been discovered using in in vitro testingthat this extract increases laminin production and can improveantioxidant activity (See, Example 1).

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Also commonly known as ascorbyl tetraisopalimate is an ester derivativeof Vitamin C. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is commercially available from avariety of sources. For instance, Barnet Products sells the compoundunder the trade name BV-OSC. It has been discovered using in vtirotesting that this compound increases Type I collagen production andinhbitis MMP3 and MMP9 enzyme activity (See, Example 1).

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Palmitoyl tetrapetide-7 are described inU.S. Pat. No. 7,998,493 to Lintner, which is incorporated herein byreference. The mixture is commercially available from Sederma SAS(France) and sold under the tradename Eyeliss™ The combination ofHesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Palmitoyl tetrapetide-7 are known toreduce bags and puffiness under the eyes.

Adenosine is an organic compound that includes an adenine compoundattached to a ribose sugar. A representative structure of adenosine isshown in Equation (I).

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that adenosine isan anti-inflammatory agent at the A₂₄ receptor. Adenosine is used in thephosphate energy cycle (i.e., ADP and ATP energy cycles). Adenosine maypromote elastin and collagen production, and thus reduce skin crepinessand improve skin tone. Adenosine may also promote blood flow to theouter layers of the skin. Promotion of blood flow and enhancement ofelastin and collagen production can result in a smoother skinappearance. Adenosine is commercially available from a wide range ofsupplies. An exemplary supplier is Xinxiang Tuoxin BiochemicalTechnology & Science Company Ltd. (China).

Opuntia tuna Fruit Extract:

Also commonly known as prickly pear, Opuntia tuna is the fruit of afamily of cactus native to the Americas. The extract is commerciallyavailable from a wide range of sources (see International CosmeticIngredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12th edition, volume 2, page 1731(2008), which is incorporated by reference).

B. Cosmetic Vehicle

The cosmetic vehicle of the present invention has been designed to workfor all skin types (e.g., oily, dry, or combination) and all age ranges.The cosmetic vehicle can be formulated as a skin cream, an eye cream, ora serum. Non-limiting examples of the cosmetic vehicle include emulsions(e.g., water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (bothaqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks andpowders), gels, and ointments. Variations and other appropriate vehicleswill be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use inthe present invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

In one instance, the cosmetic vehicle can include 50 to 70% water, 1 to3% by weight polydimethylsiloxane, 1 to 12% by weight of glycerin, 0.01to 0.3% by weight crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, 0.01 to 0.2% byweight disodium EDTA, 0.01 to 1% by weight triethanolamine, and 0.01 to1% by weight polymethyl methylacrylate 1 to 5% by weight pentyleneglycol, 1 to 5% by weight glyceryl sterate, 1 to 5% by weight ethylhexylisononanoate, 1 to 3% by weight cetyl alcohol, 1 to 5% by weightbutyrospermum parkii butter, 1 to 3% by weight cetyl phosphate, 1 to 3%by weight cetearyl alcohol, 0.01 to 1% by weight sucrosepolycottonseedate, 0.01 to 1% by weight structuring agents, and 0.01 to0.5% by weight perservatives. In another instance, the cosmetic vehiclecan include 60 to 70% water, 1 to 12% by weight of glycerin, 0.01 to0.3% by weight crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, 0.01 to 0.2% by weightdisodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), 0.01 to 1% by weighttriethanolamine, and 0.01 to 1% by weight polymethyl methylacrylate. Insome embodiments, the serum can include 60 to 70% water, butyleneglycol, cyclopentasiloxane, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylyl glycol,squalane, panthenol, polysorbate 20, 1,2-hexanediol, and a copolymer ofhydroxymethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate, 1 to 7% by weightbutylene glycol, 1 to 7% by weight cyclopenta siloxane, 1 to 5% byweight hydrogenated polydecene, 0.01 to 1% by weight caprylyl glycol,0.01 to 1% by weight squalane, 0.01 to 1% by weight panthenol, 0.01 to1% by weight polysorbate 20, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight 1,2-hexanediol, and0.01 to 0.5% by weight a copolymer of hydroxymethyl acrylate andacryloyldimethyl taurate.

C. Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any amount of the ingredients discussed in this specification.The compositions can also include any number of combinations ofadditional ingredients described throughout this specification (e.g.,pigments, or additional cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients). Theconcentrations of the any ingredient within the compositions can vary.In non-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can comprise,consisting essentially of, or consist of, in their final form, forexample, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%,0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%,0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%,0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%,0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%,0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%,0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%,0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%,0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%,0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%,0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%,0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%,0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%,0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%,0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%,0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%,0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%,0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%,0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%,0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%,0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%,0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%,1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%,3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%,4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%,5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%,6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%,7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%,9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%,13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%,27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%,90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivable therein, of at least one of theingredients that are mentioned throughout the specification and claims.In non-limiting aspects, the percentage can be calculated by weight orvolume of the total composition. A person of ordinary skill in the artwould understand that the concentrations can vary depending on theaddition, substitution, and/or subtraction of ingredients in a givencomposition.

D. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the active ingredients and cosmetic vehicles, thecompositions can also include additional ingredients such as cosmeticingredients and other pharmaceutical active ingredients. Non-limitingexamples of these additional ingredients are described in the followingsubsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including,e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agentsthat affect the natural moisturizing mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such aspara-aminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g. A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, Ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben, propylparaben,iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, and sodium benzoate), pH adjusters (e.g.,sodium hydroxide, acetic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid), absorbents(e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oatstarch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lighteningagents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g.,sorbitol, urea, methyl gluceth-20, and mannitol), exfoliants, emulsifierstabilizers (e.g., hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin), waterproofing agents(e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skin conditioning agents(e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone,hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1, ethylhexylglycerin, pentyleneglycol, hydrogenated polydecene, octyldodecyl oleate, and dipotassiumglycyrrhizate). Non-limiting examples of some of these ingredients areprovided in the following subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloyltrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis-diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino-triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples ofphysical sun blocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides(e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, Althea officinalis extract, apricot (Prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, Arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (Betulaalba) bark extract, borage (Borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(Ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, Calendula officinalisextract, Calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamom (Elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (Daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (Ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(Anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (Salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(Theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (Cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (Zea mays)oil, fattyacids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, Eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, Geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(Vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (Corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(Corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (Jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (Aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (Citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (Oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (Elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (Prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (Arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (Mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (Oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (Salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (Santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (Sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (Glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(Helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(Triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (Cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, C12-13 pareth-3,PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PPG-5-ceteth-20,bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol,arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, trihydroxystearin, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vpcopolymer, or a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecross-linked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of sucrose orpentaerythritol (e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of cross-linked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, iso-paraffin and laureth-7,multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides withacrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid and salts thereof, thimerosal,potassium sorbate, or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antip soriatic agents, anti seborrheic agents,biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents,cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rashtreatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growthretardants including difluoromethylonithine (DFMO) and its salts andanalogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, coldsore treatment agents, dental and periodontal treatment agents,photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrier agents, steroidsincluding hormones and corticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents,sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, warttreatment agents, wound treatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

E. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Efficacy of Active Ingredients

In vitro bioassays described below were used to determine the efficacyof Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf (alpine rose) extract, Oenotherabiennis seed extract (evening primrose) extract, trifluoroacetyltripeptide-2, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and Menyanthes trifoliate leafextract.

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®.+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation was compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and was quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the totalanti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the active ingredients,combination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification. The protocol was followed according tomanufacturer recommendations. The assay relied on antioxidants in thesample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®.+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherolanalogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent. Using thisassay, Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf extract demonstrated ananti-oxidant activity of 98% and Menyanthes trifoliate leaf extractdemonstrated anti-oxidant activity.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) was used to analyze theeffects of Rhododendron ferrugineum extract or other active ingredients,any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification on the activity of purifiedcyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 or COX-2). According to manufacturerinstructions, purified enzyme, heme and test extracts was mixed in assaybuffer and incubated with shaking for 15 min at room temperature.Following incubation, arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate wasadded to initiate the reaction. Color progression was evaluated bycolorimetric plate reading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 orCOX-2 activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity ofpurified enzyme. Using this assay it was determined that Rhododendronferrugineum leaf extract inhibited COX-1 activity by 68% and COX-2activity by 69%.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) was used to determine the ability of Rhododendron ferrugineumextract or any of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification to inhibit enzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase andtest ingredients was mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shakingfor 10 min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acidwas added to initiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for anadditional 10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate was addedto terminate catalysis and color progression was evaluated byfluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition oflipoxyganse activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls todetermine the ability of each of the active ingredients, any one of thecombination of ingredients, or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification to inhibit the activity of purifiedenzyme. Using this assay it was determined that Rhododendron ferrugineumleaf extract inhibited lipoxygenaze enzyme activity by 45%.

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay was used to analyze the effect of Rhododendronferrugineum leaf extract on the production of TNF-α by human epidermalkeratinocytes. The endpoint of this assay was determined using aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of TNF-α andcellular viability. The assay employs the quantitative sandwich enzymeimmunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-αwas pre-coated onto a microplate. Standards and samples can be pipettedinto the wells and any TNF-α present was bound by the immobilizedantibody. After washing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linkedpolyclonal antibody specific for TNF-α was added to the wells. Followinga wash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substratesolution was added to the wells and color develops in proportion to theamount of TNF-α bound in the initial step using a microplate reader fordetection at 450 nm. The color development was stopped and the intensityof the color was measured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes(Cascade Biologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium(Cascade Biologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, was treated with phorbol12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) andany one of the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for6 hours. PMA has been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-αsecretion which peaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation,cell culture medium was collected and the amount of TNF-α secretionquantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA)from R&D Systems (#DTA00C). Using this assay it was determined thatRhododendron ferrugineum leaf extract inhibited TNF-α production by 66%.

B16 Melanogenesis Assay:

B16 Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay wasdetermined using a spectrophotometric measurement of melanin productionand cellular viability. B16-F1 melanocytes, was cultivated in standardDMEM growth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in10% CO₂ and then treated with Rhododendron ferrugineum extract or anyone of the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion was measured byabsorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability was quantified. Using thisassay it was determined that Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf extractreduced B16 melanogenesis by 38%.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can be used to examine the effect of any oneof the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide was been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples were pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present was bound by the immobilized antibody. After washingaway any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide was added to the wells. Following awash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solutionwas added to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development was stopped and theintensity of the color was measured. Subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in standard DMEMgrowth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10%CO₂, was treated with the compounds listed in Table 1 or each of thecombination of ingredients or compositions having said combinationsdisclosed in the specification for 3 days. Following incubation, cellculture medium was collected and the amount of procollagen peptidesecretion quantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay(ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

TABLE 1 % Increase of Type I Ingredient Collagen Production OenotheraBiennis Seed Extract 117 Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 23 Tetrahexyldecylascorbate 50

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay: An in vitromatrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellularproteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtueof their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens,fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substrates include collagen VII,fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits fromBioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9 (AK-410), this assay isdesigned to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as achromogenic substrate (Ac-PLG42-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoylRG-OC2H5)5,6.The MMP cleavage site peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond inthe thiopeptide. Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydrylgroup, which reacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid),Ellman's reagent] to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can bedetected by its absorbance at 412 nm (c=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 andabove 7). The active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification can be assayed. The assay results for tetrahexyldecylascorbate and Menyanthes trifoliate leaf extract are listed in Table 2.

TABLE 2 % MMP3 % MMP9 % Laminin Ingredient Activity Activity IncreaseTetrahexyldecyl ascorbate 38 11 — Menyanthes trifoliate leaf extract 23400

Example 2 Delivery Vehicle for Active Ingredients

Various combinations of the active ingredients discussed above inExample 1 were found to be stable and effective in various deliveryvehicles described in Tables 3-5. Further, these vehicles can becombined with additional ingredients to prepare an end-product such asthe creams and serums identified in Tables 6-9 in Example 3.

TABLE 3 % Concentration Ingredients (by weight) water 58 glycerin 11.9polydimethylsiloxane 2.7 triethanolamine 0.9 polymethyl methylacrylate0.72 acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.1 disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.1 active ingredients* up to 5excipients** q.s. *Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf (alpine rose) extract,Oenothera biennis seed extract (evening primrose) extract,trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and Menyanthestrifoliate leaf extract. **structuring agents, fragrances, andpreservatives. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied upwardsby removing the excipients.

TABLE 4 % Concentration Ingredients (by weight) water 67 glycerin 2.1polydimethylsiloxane 2.8 triethanolamine 0.9 polymethyl methylacrylate0.72 acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.1 disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.1 active ingredients* up to 5excipients** q.s. *Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf (alpine rose) extract,Oenothera biennis seed extract (evening primrose) extract,trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and Menyanthestrifoliate leaf extract. **structuring agents, fragrances, andpreservatives. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied upwardsby removing the excipients.

TABLE 5 % Concentration Ingredients (by weight) water 66 glycerin 10.9polydimethylsiloxane 3.5 triethanolamine 0.25 polymethyl methylacrylate0.73 acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.3 disodiumethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.1 active ingredients* up to 5excipients** q.s. *Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf (alpine rose) extract,Oenothera biennis seed extract (evening primrose) extract,trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and Menyanthestrifoliate leaf extract. **structuring agents, fragrances, andpreservatives. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied upwardsby removing the excipients.

Example 3 Product Formulations

The formulations in Tables 6-8 incorporate various combinations of theactives in Example 1 and the delivery vehicles in Example 2. Each ofthese formulations are oil-in-water emulsions. Table 6 is designed as askin cream. Table 7 is designed as an eye cream for application aroundthe periorbital area of a person (e.g., under the eye bags and circlesand on “crows feet”). Table 8 is designed as a serum.

TABLE 6* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water 58 Glycerin 11.92Glyceryl Sterate 4.30 Pentylene Glycol 4.28 Ethylhhexyl Isononanate 3.15Dimethicone 2.70 Cetyl Alcohol 2.70 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter2.20 Zea Mays (corn) Germ Oil 1.94 Cetyl Phosphate 1.58 Cetearyl Alcohol1.44 Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 1.00 Bifida Ferment Lysate 0.99Triethonolamine 0.90 Polymethyl Methacrylate 0.72 Ceteareth-33 0.68Oenothera Biennis (evening primrose) Extract 0.25 Methylparaben 0.20Acrylate cross-linked polymer C10-C30 0.25 Fragrance 0.1 Propylparaben0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Rhododendron Ferrugineum extract 0.02 Adenosine0.04 Trifuoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 0.004 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract(optional) 0.0005 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20 to 25° C.). Further, and if desired, additionalingredients can be added, for example, to modify the rheologicalproperties of the composition. **Excipients were added to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 50% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

TABLE 7* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water 68 GlycerylSterate 4.28 Pentylene Glycol 4.00 Ethylhhexyl Isononanate 3.00Dimethicone 2.80 Cetyl Alcohol 2.70 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter2.60 Zea Mays (corn) Germ Oil 2.425 Glycerin 2.10 Cetyl Phosphate 1.58Cetearyl Alcohol 1.44 Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 1.00 Triethonolamine0.90 Polymethyl Methacrylate 0.72 Ceteareth-33 0.68 Oenothera Biennis(evening primrose) Extract 0.25 Methylparaben 0.20 Acrylate cross-linkedpolymer C10-C30 0.20 BHT 0.10 Propylparaben 0.10 Disodium EDTA 0.10Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone 0.05 Adenosine 0.04 Rhododendron Ferrugineumextract 0.02 Trifuoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 0.004 Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-70.0003 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract (optional) 0.0005 Excipients** q. s.*Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker underheat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can becooled to standing room temperature (20 to 25° C.). Further, and ifdesired, additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Excipients were added tomodify the rheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, theamount of water can be varied so long as the amount of water in thecomposition is at least 50% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

TABLE 8* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water 66 Glycerin 10.9Butylene Glycol 5.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 4.96 Dimethicone 3.50Hydrogenated Polydecene 3.00 Cross-linked Polymer of Dimethicone/vinyl1.24 Dimeth Dimethicone Tetrahexyldecyl Acorbate 1.00 PolymethylMethacrylate 0.73 Caprylyl Glycol 0.53 1,2-Hexanediol 0.47 HydroxyethylAcrylate/Sodium 0.30 Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymers Polysorbate 200.30 Cross-linked Copolymer of Acrylates C10-C30 0.30 Squalane 0.255Oenothera Biennis (evening primrose) Extract 0.25 Triethanolamine 0.25Panthenol 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Xanthum gum 0.10 Adenosine 0.04Rhododendron Ferrugineum extract 0.02 Menyanthes Trifoliata Leaf Extract0.01 Trifuoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 0.004 Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract(optional) 0.0005 Excipients** q. s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20 to 25° C.). Further, and if desired, additionalingredients can be added, for example, to modify the rheologicalproperties of the composition. **Excipients were added to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 50% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

TABLE 9* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water 50 GlycerylSterate 7 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 6 Zea Mays (corn) Germ Oil5 Pentylene Glycol 4 Dimethicone 2 Cetyl Phosphate 2 Glycerin 2 CetearylAlcohol 1.5 Triethonolamine 1.5 Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 1 Bifidaferment lysate 1 Ceteareth-33 0.5 Polymethyl Methacrylate 0.5Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Carbomer 0.5 Oenothera Biennis (evening primrose)0.25 Seed Extract Methylparaben 0.2 BHT 0.2 Disodium EDTA 0.1Propylparaben 0.1 Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin 0.1 Adenosine 0.05Rhododendron Ferrugineum extract 0.02 Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.01Sodium benzoate 0.003 Acetic acid 0.002 Dextran 0.001 Lactic acid 0.001Trifuoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 0.0004 Citric Acid 0.0001 Opuntia Tuna FruitExtract (optional) 0.05 Excipients** q.s. *Formulation can be preparedby mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20 to 25° C.). Further, and if desired, additionalingredients can be added, for example, to modify the rheologicalproperties of the composition. **Excipients were added to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 50% w/w, and preferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

Example 4 Other Assays

Other assays that can be used to evaluate the active ingredients, anyone of the combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification can be assayed are describedbelow.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test extract inhibition was compared withthat of kojic acid (Sigma).

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can also beassayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients orcompositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time ittakes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygenradicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). TheORAC value of any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification can be determined by methods known to those of ordinaryskill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), all of which are incorporated byreference). In summary, the assay described in Cao et al. (1993)measures the ability of antioxidant compounds in test materials toinhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE) fluorescence that isinduced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Elastase Assay:

EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit #E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,chloromethyl ketone, can be used as a selective, collective inhibitor ofelastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening forelastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Repeat measurements can be taken at regular intervals todetermine the formula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance. Each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be assayedaccording to this process.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification is inducing irritation. The measurements can be made oneach side of the face and averaged, as left and right facial values.Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of thepresent invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, forexample, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog,stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), aprecursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated witha variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents ofthe present invention or with the base alone as a control.Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as acontrol.

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method of reducing the appearance ofhyperpigmented skin, the method comprising topically applying tohyperpigmented skin a composition comprising 0.001 wt. % to 0.5 wt. % ofan aqueous and/or glycerin extract of Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf toreduce melanocyte pigmentation in the skin.
 2. The method of claim 1,wherein the hyperpigmented skin is a dark spot on the skin associatedwith aging.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the hyperpigmented skin isskin having an uneven skin tone.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein thehyperpigmented skin comprises inflamed skin, wherein the composition isapplied to the inflamed skin, and wherein TNF-α, COX-1, and COX-2activity in the skin is reduced.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition is an emulsion.
 6. The method of claim 5, wherein theemulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
 7. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition is a cream or lotion.
 8. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition is an aqueous solution or a gel.
 9. The method of claim1, wherein the composition consists of the extract of Rhododendronferrugineum leaf, water, and glycerin.
 10. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises a pH adjuster.
 11. The methodof claim 10, wherein the composition consists of the extract ofRhododendron ferrugineum leaf, water, glycerin, and the pH adjuster. 12.The method of claim 1, wherein the composition consists of the extractof Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf and caprylic/capric triglyceride. 13.The method of claim 1, wherein the extract of Rhododendron ferrugineumleaf is an aqueous extract.
 14. The method of claim 1, wherein theextract of Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf is an aqueous and glycerinextract.